Glowforge Masking 101: Cleaner Engravings, Less Cleanup

Masking your work is the unglamorous hero of clean engravings. It keeps smoke and soot off your surface, sharpens edges, and saves you from scrubbing your work like it owes you money.

That being said, I don’t mask everything. Here’s how I choose the right tape, apply it fast, and dial in settings so the mask helps instead of hinders.

What “masking” actually does

• Masking (tape) is a sacrificial layer. The tape takes the smoke and resin so your material doesn’t.
• It stabilizes fibers. On lighter woods(maple, birch, etc.) it reduces fuzzy edges and smoky halos.
• It buys you cleanup time. Peel the tape, reveal clean lines, do a quick wipe, and you’re done.

When I mask and when I don’t

• I mask:
  • Un-finished light woods (maple, birch), untanned leather, pale acrylics, white‑coated metals.
  • High‑detail linework and large filled engraves.
  • Anything gift‑ready where I want that crisp reveal.
• I sometimes skip:
  • Darker woods (walnut, cherry) for small, shallow engraves. Especially if the “lived‑in” look fits.
  • Rough plywood where adhesion is a fight. In those cases, I’ll lightly sand and seal first (more on that below).
• I don’t mask:
  • Pre-finished woods with gloss coatings that can clean up easily with a rag.
  • Pre‑finished items with delicate coatings that tape can lift. A good way to check is to test the masking a corner first.

The tapes I actually use

• High‑tack paper transfer tape (a.k.a. masking tape for lasers) sticks to most unfinished woods and acrylics. Since most of my projects are under 12", I like to use 12" rolls and overlap by 1/8" if needed.
• Medium‑tack for delicate surfaces or lighter adhesion. Good on pre‑finished boards that still need protection.
• Blue painter’s tape only in a pinch. It's great for small engravings like logos, and simple text. Note: It lifts easier under heat.

Quick tip: Width of the tape matters: Wider rolls = fewer seams = fewer chances for smoke to sneak in.

Prep matters more than tape

• Clean the surface: Wipe wood with a small amount of isopropyl alcohol. If it’s factory‑oiled, it needs a better wipe.
• Smooth is sticky: A quick pass with 220‑grit on rough spots makes masking behave.
• Seal tricky woods: A whisper‑thin coat of shellac or sanding sealer on porous ply can help tape stick and keeps soot out of the grain. Let it flash off fully.

How I apply mask fast (and flat)

1. Unroll and anchor: Peel back an inch of the masking backing and stick the tape along one edge of the material.
2. Lay and squeegee: Using a felt squeegee or old credit card, work down the piece, carefully pushing out any bubbles that may form under the tape.
3. Overlap seams: If seams are needed, best practice is to keep an 1/8" overlap, then burnish the seams again. Seams can be a weak points, so be sure to check them before starting your engraving.

Not necessary but recommended

1. Trim edges: A sharp blade around the perimeter avoids peels in the bed airflow.
2. Burnish, burnish, burnish: Pressure matters. I run a small rubber roller over the whole area to assure that the masking is well adhered to the surface.

Common mistakes I’ve made (so you don’t have to)

• Skipping burnish on seams: Smoke slips under and gives you zebra stripes. Press those seams hard.
• Over‑masking intricate cuts: Be aware, the more detail the engraving is, the more time you'll spend removing the masking. Tiny pieces can also lift with the tape, so be careful while removing the masking in these areas. I like to use an X-ACTO knife to help with carefully lifting edges of the tape to peel it off. 
• Using painter’s tape on oily boards: It lifts mid‑job. If you must, de‑oil the area with alcohol and let it dry fully.

De‑masking without drama

• Let the material cool: Hot adhesive is gummy. A minute of patience beats a minute of goo.
• Peel low and slow: Keep the tape almost parallel to the surface when peeling it back. It shears the adhesive cleaner.
• Stubborn residue: If your masking is leaving a residue, don't freak out. A light wipe with isopropyl on a soft rag should help lift any residue off the surface.
• Tiny bits in deep engraves: If small pieces end up in the engravings, I like to use compressed air or a soft brush first. A vacuum can also help before any wiping.

Tools and materials I actually use

• High‑tack paper transfer tape (12" rolls)
• Felt squeegee and small rubber roller
• Isopropyl alcohol (91%+) and lint‑free shop towels
• 220/320 grit sanding block
• Shellac/sanding sealer for porous plywoods

If you try these tips, tag me. I love seeing the peel‑and‑reveal. Also, if you want a deeper dive (like selective masking tricks or batch‑engrave jigs), comment below and let me know. I'm always interested in knowing what people want me to share.